Posted by: nik | July 13, 2013

Fill ‘er up, Sun!

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I drove home in a shiny new Nissan Leaf last night. This, so-called, zero-emissions vehicle has no internal combustion engine, just a 80kW electric motor and a whole lot of lithium ion batteries. It seats 5 and drives like the Celica we had before kids…only quieter…a lot quieter!

This will be our around-town vehicle since it has a max range of about 100 miles. It gets roughly 3 miles per kilowatt-hour. Our lease allows for 12k miles per year. Unlikely that we will drive it that far but even if we did, that would only add about 4-5000 kilowatt-hour to our annual energy budget. Even if we bought all of that from the utility at a peak rate (obviously we won’t) it would cost us about $750 to operate.

The vehicle has its own internet connection and I can monitor and control it right from my phone. I’m pretty geeked.

Posted by: Li Ling Young | July 7, 2013

Energy Units

It started with this question.., “Why don’t we use the dryer anymore?”  This is my son asking, and it’s May.  Both of our kids are pretty used to my long-winded answers by now, but this one had a short answer: “Because the dryer uses 5 kWh for each load!”  It was the next question that really got me started, and I didn’t really stop until sometime in the middle of school the next day.

“What’s a kilowatt-hour anyway?”

Now, I’ve answered this question dozens of times, with varying degrees of success, but here was my chance to try my answer out on someone who a) is pretty sharp math-wise, and 2) doesn’t think they already sort of understand it.  Ready to give it a whirl?

A kilowatt-hour, abbreviated “kWh” is an amount of energy.  It’s sort of like a “gallon” (of milk), or a “cord” (of wood), or an “acre” (of strawberry plants).  What it’s not is a rate, like “gallons-per-day” (a good cow produces over 5 gallons/day), or “cords-per-year” (3: that’s how quickly we burned wood last year: way too fast!), or acres-per-hour (a crew of strawberry pickers might harvest a few acres/hour).

It’s confusing because a kWh has the word “hour” in there, which is sort of like miles-per-hour, or something else with a time unit (see all the rates I made up in the previous paragraph).  But it’s absolutely nothing like that because it’s not “kilowatts-per-hour”; it’s just “kilowatt-hour”.  Mathematically the difference is a rate is divided by some unit of time, and a kWh is multiplied by time: big difference.  Never say “kilowatt-per-hour”.  That’s mostly nonsense and it’s really bad science literacy.  If you have to correct someone who has said it incorrectly, be kind.

The reason a kWh categorically is not a rate is because it’s an amount of something: energy in this case.  A rate never tells you how much, only how fast.  As an example, say you’re running to get in shape.  Every day you run, and over time you gradually increase the distance you run each day so you can continue to challenge yourself and get stronger.  You probably also get a little faster as the weeks of consistent training start to pay off.  But really you’re keeping track of how many miles you run every day, because that’s how you measure progress.  Week one you run 2 miles each time you go out.  But by week five you’re running 4 miles a day, and by week eleven you’re up to a 7-mile run.  Sharp readers will have noticed I slipped a rate in there, but you look and feel awesome: science literacy is not a burning issue in your mind.

Nonetheless, how much sense would it make if instead I told you that on week one you ran four miles-per-hour (hereafter abbreviated in the normal way), week five 4.2 mph, and week eleven 3.8 mph?  First off, you’re getting slower, and b) how far did you run?  THAT is the important difference between a rate and an amount.  The rate, “mph”, is not enough information to know how far you ran.  To know that you have to multiply the rate (in this case miles-per-hour) by the duration.  On week one we know you ran for about 30 minutes.  After that you only ran for about 10 minutes per outing, stopped working out consistently, and went to a few parties.  By week eleven you’d gained weight and developed a bad back from sleeping on friends’ couches.  Rate tells you nothing when what you want to know is “how much”.

Back to kWh…  A kWh is a “how much” of energy.  There is a corresponding rate, and it’s called a “kilowatt”.  Very confusing because there is no time unit in there, yet it is a rate, just like balloons-per-day, inches-per-year and revolutions-per-minute.  You just have to take my word for it.  If you really want to know, it’s 1000 joules-per-second, but I’m not going to talk about joules (though the sharp reader will notice that the time unit has made a reappearance, like a proper rate).  So, just like with any rate, you multiply the rate by the duration and you get the amount of something.  I just thought of a familiar corollary that helps explain having the time unit where it doesn’t belong: a light-year.  A light-year sort of seems like a rate (maybe light/year?), but really it’s a unit of distance: the distance light travels in one earth year.  Just so, a kWh is the amount of energy needed to power a 1 kilowatt device for one hour.  The “per” has nothing to do with it!  “Per” means “each”, whereas light-year and kilowatt-hour mean “during”.

And now, the dryer!  I told my son that 5 kWh for a dryer load is crazy because we only use about 10 kWh/day on a normal, non-laundry day.  A couple loads of laundry could double our day’s electricity consumption?  Wow!  To paraphrase an old farm saying, “Do laundry when the sun shines.”  Starting in May we can consistently hang our laundry to dry if we keep an eye on the weather and only wash on sunny days.

One last thing…  We haven’t talked about the electrical demand of the dryer: the rate at which the dryer uses electricity.  By using our energy monitors I know a dryer load uses about 5 kWh, and draws 6 kilowatts (kW) while it’s running.  As a test to see whether my son really absorbed the whole long answer, I challenged him to explain the difference between kW and kWh to his math teacher and then pose this question to him to measure his comprehension and my son’s explanation:

How long does a dryer load take?  Give it a whirl.

Posted by: Li Ling Young | July 7, 2013

We Need a New Dehumidifier

A basement is a hole in the ground that you cover with a house.  I don’t know why we have basements in the Northeast.  They probably started out as a little dug out spot under the house to store veggies, and then, when we started having plumbing, electricity and, later, central heating, grew into a room-sized space for pipes, wires, big, noisy, smelly machines, and, later still, a bunch of stuff we thought we needed but really don’t so now have to store somewhere clean and dry.

Our basement, like most basements the world over, is kind of wet.  We don’t get water in our basement: that would make it actually wet.  Ours is just sort of damp in the summer.  Our basement is damp because it’s cool down there.  Cool things are always wet.  There’s really no way to dry out something that’s cold because drying means evaporation and evaporation takes energy, which is in short supply if you’re talking about something that’s cold.

To reduce the dampness in our basement and keep things from getting smelly, we dehumidify the air down there.  When it’s either very warm or very humid up above ground, humidity in the basement goes way up, and that’s where our wetness comes from.  Our dehumidifier removes moisture from the air by the same refrigerant cycle I described for the heat pump.  The dehumidifier we brought with us from our other house pooped out on us this spring, so we had to get a new one.  By the time I got off my duff and chose one, the humidity in the basement was 88% RH: way too high!

I wanted the most efficient dehumidifier available, so I went to the ENERGY STAR website and looked at the list of ENERGY STAR labeled dehumidifiers.  The most efficient dehumidifiers have an energy factor (EF) of better than 4 litres/kWh, and the least efficient ENERGY STAR labeled dehumidifiers have an EF of less than 2.  Glad I looked into it instead of just buying an ENERGY STAR dehumidifier from Sears, which is what I did last time, I set about shopping for the dehumidifiers at the top of the list.

First, I had never heard of any of the manufacturers: Santa Fe, Quest, Ultra-Air…  That’s because these super-efficient dehumidifiers are made for places like Louisiana where they don’t just perch their houses on top of a big hole in the ground; they perch their houses on top of a little hole in the ground, also known as a crawlspace.  The problem with crawlspaces is they haven’t evolved much past the root cellar stage.  Whereas basements are kind of wet, crawlspaces are actually wet (often), and they can get really smelly and make the house more humid than would otherwise be the case.  With no comment about the abysmal state of building science in cooling climates, let me just say that the dehumidifiers at the top of the list were made for climates where dehumidifying is as big a deal as heating is in my climate.

How did I discover this?  Second, these dehumidifiers are literally ten times the cost I was expecting: about the cost of a cheap boiler.  No one here carries these things, but if I did want to order one, they’d be $2,000-$4,000.

I wasn’t ready to quit yet.  Since we’re living in the Energy Freakshow I thought maybe we could justify the !?$2,000?!? dehumidifier.  Time for some math.

The old dehumidifier had a 2- to 2.5-gallon reservoir (remembering and guessing).  We never set the thing up to automatically drain itself, and I liked that, despite the daily inconvenience of emptying the bin, because it allowed me to keep track of what the humidity load was. We emptied it about twice every three days.  That means 5 to 7 litres per day.  Assuming the ENERGY STAR standard hasn’t changed since we bought our last dehumidifier, that would be around 3 kWh/day, which is consistent with what our home energy monitor told us: 3-5 kWh increase in daily electricity consumption while we were using the dehumidifier.

Three kWh per day for June, July and August is about 300 kWh.  If the best dehumidifiers are EF 4.2, and the baseline ENERGY STAR dehumidifier is EF 1.85, then we could potentially reduce our dehumidifier electricity to 142 kWh for the year, for an annual savings of 157 kWh.  Worth it?  How much does electricity cost?

Those who have been following the blog know we get our electricity from our solar panels, so in a way you could say our electricity costs nothing.  But that’s not helping us make a decision.  Let’s look at the prevailing cost of grid electricity in our town: 14.5 cents/kWh.  The 157 kWh/year savings represents $22.80 in electricity costs.  That makes for a 78.9 year payback.  Our last dehumidifier only lasted 7 years.

We don’t have an efficient dehumidifier.  We have an ENERGY STAR dehumidifier.  I’m a little disappointed, but also proud of myself for not buying the $2000 dehumidifier: in the way one is proud of oneself when one doesn’t take a second serving of dessert.  We ended up getting a basic ENERGY STAR dehumidifier, with contractor discount, for $170.  I’ll put the rest toward our new electric car.

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